The 2004 critically-acclaimed Sideways has two identities: it’s a sophisticated, nearly poetic film about relationships and wine, but it’s also a juvenile sex comedy including naked dashes in the night and an obligatory car trashing. It’s the story of Miles (Paul Giamatti) and Jack (Thomas Haden Church), two men in their forties, who embark on a trip to California wine country for a week of tastings and golf. It’s also the story of Miles, who hasn’t gotten over his divorce after two years, and Jack who, scheduled to be married in a week, is determined to find sex for both of them, and their week of heavy drinking (and a disturbing abundance of casually displayed drunk-driving). You can almost see Fast Times at Ridgemont High’s Rat and Damone twenty-five years later in these men. One is sensitive, nerdy, and uncomfortable around girls; the other is horny yet smooth and oddly committed to the other’s sexual success.

Still, this dichotomy speaks to the essence of the film, a comment on the inability of grown-ups today to become adults. They know everything there is to know about wine, and they write high-concept books that span two boxes, yet they also giggle at lectures and steal money from their mothers’ underwear drawers. They’re unable to move forward through life, so they just keep moving sideways (get it?)

SidewaysWarm with golden light as if shot through a glass of Pinot Blanc, the film features impressive performances from Giamatti, as well as Sandra Oh and Virginia Madsen who play the two wine country conquests. However, most surprising is Wings’ Haden Church as the simultaneously soulless and sensitive Jack.

Open a bottle of the Meridian Vineyards 2000 Pinot Noir before stretching out on the couch. It makes an excellent pairing with this movie.

Sideways is available on HBO On Demand until January 7.

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